Salta City: Captivating beauty.

 

The city of Salta is by a long stretch the tourism capital of Argentina’s northwest region. It’s a city where the old converges with the new and where the old comes out on top. Whether arriving from Buenos Aires or crossing the border from Bolivia, you’ll notice instantly the laidback lifestyle of Salta. Time often feels as though it has stood still around the cobblestone streets of the city center, which is blessed with colonial architecture. Tradition runs deep here, most notably during Carnival when locals hit the streets to pay homage to Pachamama, the Incan goddess of fertility.

 

Parque Nacional Los Cardones - Salta

 

Founded in 1582 by Governor Hernando de Lerma of Tucumán, today the city is commonly known as Salta la Linda (Salta the Pretty). The city’s name originates from the word sagta, which means beautiful in the language of the Aymara indigenous people. Unlike other Argentine cities, Salta didn’t witness a wave of mass immigration. However, what the city missed out on in European influence it benefited by maintaining the traditions of the Diaguita-Calchaquí indigenous group and other Inca tribes.

 

Cabildo - Historical Center of Salta

 

The city of  Salta, with its slow pace of life and colonial architecture, is brimming with boutique hotels and restaurants. It’s surrounded by places offering every imaginable adventure sport, from paragliding to bungee jumping.

 

What to See and Do

 

From architecture and museums to artisanal markets and hilltop lookouts, there’s plenty to see and do in Salta. Start your visit at Plaza 9 de Julio, the city’s main square. On its north side is the stunning Salta Cathedral (España 596). It houses the ashes of General Martin Miguel de Güemes, an important figure during the wars of independence. The interior of blue, green and gold is spotless, as is the impressive cathedral organ. There’s also a small museum that holds religious relics.

 

Salta's Cathedral - Salta City

From the cathedral, walk over to the Museo Arqueologiá de Alta Montaña (Mitre 77). If you only visit one museum in Salta then make it this one, which dedicates itself to the preservation of Andean culture and anthropology. The highlight is the so-called Llullaillaco Children, three mummified and perfectly-preserved Inca children discovered at Llullaillaco Volcano in 1999. Historians believe the children were sacrificed in a fertility ceremony or as an offering to the Incan gods, around the year 1490. To maintain the preservation, only one is on display at any one time. On the south side of Plaza 9 de Julio is the Museo Histórico delNorte (Caseros 541). Housed in Salta’s original cabildo (town hall), the museum contains displays of Salta’s Indian and colonial history, in addition to art exhibits.

Walk east along Caseros street until you reach Córdoba street. Here, you’ll find the Iglesia San Francisco, a striking church with a 174-feet (53-meter) tower and terracotta exterior. Inside, a small museum displays religious images from the 1600s and 1700s. Continue along Caseros to Santa Fe, where you’ll see the Convento de San Bernardo. Access is for Carmelite nuns only but it’s worth passing by to see the striking wooden door of the main entrance.

Iglesia de San Francisco - Salta City

 

For panoramic views of Salta, and the city’s surroundings, take the teleférico (cable car) to Cerro San Bernardo. The teleférico leaves from Parque San Martín, a 15-mintue walk from Plaza 9 de Julio. At the hilltop are various balconies and lookout points, and terraced gardens. Look for a monument dedicated to the Battle of Salta, and 14 Stations of the Cross. The hilltop is a good spot for a picnic and to watch the sunset. If you are feeling energetic then walk up via the route that starts behind Güemes Monument (Paseo Güemes and Av. Uruguay). Combine a ride on the cable car with walk around Parque San Martín, which is similar to Palermo Woods in Buenos Aires.

Salta is a great place to shop for leather, ceramic and textile goods, and you’ll find things markedly cheaper than in other parts of Argentina. The best place to shop is at the Mercado Artesanal (San Martín 2555), located in an old millhouse about 25 blocks from Plaza 9 de Julio. There’s a nice café here that you can have a drink in before making your way back. On Sunday mornings, head to Balcarce street, where the Feria Artesanal sets up, selling everything from homemade honey and jams to clothing and locally-made souvenirs.

 

Nightlife and Restaurants

The cuisine of Argentina’s northwestern region is notably different from the rest of the country. Be sure to try the empanadas, which many say are the finest in Argentina. Other local fare includes: locro, a thick stew of corn, beans and potato; tamale, corn flour wraps filled with meat and/or potatoes and steamed in a leaf wrapper; and humita, steamed corn husks filled with mashed corn and cheese.
 

Humita - Traditional dish with sweetcorn - Salta.

 

 

Make the El Patio de la Empanada (cnr San Martín and Esteco) top of your list of places to eat. It’s a simple establishment; an open-air patio lined with family-run stalls selling classic Salteño fare. Take a seat at any table, wait for a waitress and order a plate of delicious empanadas. It’s great value and locals fill the tables at lunchtime, so it can’t be bad. The Mercado Central (cnr Florida and San Martín) is another good spot to pick up some cheap eats, including fresh fruit and vegetables.

 

 

Empanadas and Spices

When in Salta don’t miss out on a night at a peña, a restaurant and folkloric music venue. You can enjoy local food while watching music and dance performances, and it’s likely that you’ll be invited to join in the dancing. There’re a number of such venues on Balcarce street. Salta’s most famous peña, however, is Peña Balderrama (San Martín 1126). Many of Argentina’s folk music bands would meet here and the bar has been immortalized in a folkloric song. The bar is opposite El Patio de la Empanada, and it’s worth making reservations.

We highly recommend: La Casona del Molino.

La Casona del Molino (the mill house) is the nook where all friends, guitars and bombos of Salta meet to enjoy a true peña, the expression of Argentine traditions. Address: Luis Burela 1, Salta City.

La Casona del Molino - Salta City

 

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